In their latest exhibition, the Met's Costume Institute in New York pays homage to the trailblazing women who have shaped the fashion industry. Titled "Women Dressing Women," the show highlights the work of generations of female designers, shedding light on their contributions, struggles, and triumphs. From boundary-pushing creations to thought-provoking themes, this exhibition leaves no stone unturned.
Opening its doors to the public, "Women Dressing Women" offers visitors a thought-provoking experience that goes beyond fashion trends and historical significance. Through detailed wall texts and carefully curated displays, the exhibition sparks conversations on representation, inclusion, body stereotypes, sustainability, and gender fluidity. The show encourages us to delve deeper into the significance of these topics in fashion and society as a whole.
This exhibition, initially planned for fall 2020, was rescheduled due to the pandemic. However, the Met's commitment to showcasing women-led shows remained unwavering. Featuring a range of items from the early 20th century to the contemporary, approximately 50 percent of the 80-plus pieces are being publicly displayed for the first time. The display is rooted in the museum's permanent collection, complemented by a dozen additional acquisitions specifically made for the show.
Among the highlighted designers is the talented Black designer Ann Lowe, whose impressive 50-year career includes designing Jackie Kennedy's iconic 1953 wedding dress. Lowe's work is an important reminder of the often uncredited contributions made by women in the industry. The exhibition also sheds light on Adele Henriette Negrin Fortuny, whose influential 1909 pleated "Delphos" gown was attributed to her husband for many years. The show challenges us to question the historical narratives that often overlook the true creators behind iconic designs.
As visitors explore the exhibition, they will encounter striking visual pairings and connect the dots between designers of different eras. One such striking juxtaposition is the combination of Madame Grès' silk jersey evening dress with a Comme des Garçons ensemble by Rei Kawakubo. Interestingly, the Met's first exhibition dedicated to a female designer was dedicated to Grès in 1994, while Kawakubo became the first living female designer to receive a show at the museum in 2017.
The exhibition is divided into several sections, each exploring different themes and historical periods. Anonymity, Visibility, Agency, and Absence/Omission are some of the main sections that provide insight into the collective nature of design, the interconnectedness of fashion, and the evolving roles of women in the industry. The show also highlights the contributions of American women designers such as Jessie Franklin Turner, Claire McCardell, Gabriela Hearst,Bonnie Cashin, and Vera Maxwell, who played a pivotal role in shaping the shift toward ready-to-wear fashion.
References:- Gabriela Hearst
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